The Pakistani northern area polo finals were held in Gilgit center, Monday, April 21.  The final match was quite different than anything I have seen at a Peterborough Pete’s or Laker’s game back home in our Memorial Center.  In fact, it is quite unlike anything I have ever seen!

            To reach the grounds I hopped onto a Suzuki bus which serves as public transport in the area for 10 Rupies (16 cents).  I literally hopped onto the back bumper and then hung on to the bonnet with three other passengers since the truck bed was filled with ten passengers.

            Getting to the grounds was one thing, getting in was another.  I followed a herd into a ruined building, climbed a hole in the wall up onto the roof.  From there I shimmied up a pole latter onto another roof with a multitude of other fans.  This new higher roof was over a building still under construction and the roof will someday be a third floor.  The manager was obviously upset with his unannounced tenants and came up to threaten and yell at people to leave.  This did not work very well.  He later returned with a friend wielding a stick again asking for our removal.  Again this did not work very well.  I observed this from my perch on top of a stack of crumbling, wobbly, concrete blocks.  The rooftop construction area certainly did not meet Ontario construction safety standards, not did my VIP seat.  Being the only white guy, no one bothered me and I pretended ignorance to the whole commotion.  Then a group of young men with red, black, and green arm bands, armed with more sticks helped the owner clear the area (somewhat).  The private army was affiliated with the Pakistani People’s Party, the owner must have enlisted their help rectify the situation.  The amicable bully sitting beside me made the comment, “This will not be a match, it will be a war.”  To my right were two guys smoking and to my right were three army officers armed with machine guns.  Finally, with about as many people as we started with, our cheering section was ready for the match.

            Polo is a game founded in central Asia and still played vigorously by the men in the north.  It originated as a test of skill and training for warrior horsemen, often playing with the head of a fallen enemy.   It is often called the sports of kings, but here in Pakistan it is just the sport of civil servants.  This particular area of Pakistan has a long history of polo tradition and pride.  Today’s championship match was between the PWD, Public Works Department and the NALI, Northern Area Scott’s Light Infantry.

            Before the final match began a number of contests and spectacles are arranged for the crowd and players to enjoy.  First was a tug of war between the two teams.  Second was dancing and sword twirling by some local talent.  Last was a demonstration of skill by some players on horseback, charging from one end to center to spear a small piece of wood and raise it aloft for the crowd to cheer.

            Finally it was time for the players to take the field and the match to commence.  Each team has six players on horseback with mallets defend and attack opposing goals similar to the size of a soccer net on a field about 120 meters long and 30 meters wide.  Players can hit the ball their mallet as well as use their mallet to obstruct other players.  We all can have our own interpretation of the word obstruct and I certainly could not decipher the rule any clearer than that.  Players are apparently also allowed to catch the ball and ride with it; once they are obstructed they must release the ball and can try and bat at it.  Also peculiar is that when the ball is hit into the stands the spectators can return the ball to play.  This of course can add an element of favoritism to the game by the fans.  The fans at both ends sit on the end lines, but those along the sides are elevated off the pitch by a meter concrete barrier.  There is no safety plexiglass or netting.  However, at times the ball is thrown in from a special guest in the central stands.  Also when I goal is scored the teams switch the end that they are attacking.  I am not really sure on the rules of a restart after a goal, usually a fan returns the ball to play, but I saw many variations of this.

            The game started with a fast pace up and down both ends as players jockeyed for position and batted about the ball and each other.  It was a fierce, rugged affair and the first half ended in a four all draw.  Team supporters often were on the field collecting and distributing mallets in either an official or unofficial capacity.  Then fans rushed the field at half and the players and horses rested in the center protected by a porous wall of baton swing army officers.

            The first half was 30 minutes.  The second half was over an hour, but I don’t think anyone really had control of the time, or the game.  The intensity of the second half certainly picked up.  When the score was about ten each a few attempts on goal had put rider and horse running right threw a fleeing crowd of spectators behind our goal.  In a players attempt to regain the field his horse trampled an army officer there to protect the sanctity of the field of play.  The crowd was tense and often overtook the end line onto the pitch.  The players did not stop for any of this.  The fans on our goal line were of mixed affiliations and as tempers flared little quarrels broke out.  Near the twenty minute mark into the second half one such quarrel spilled onto the field and caused a sure goal to be questioned.  Whether the goal was disallowed or not I don’t know, and neither did anyone sitting around me.  From this point on the game degenerated into a polo game played amongst, and at times with, a chaotic mess of pushing and shoving between fans army officials and others.  One player arguing in favour of the disputed goal stole the ball (or a ball) and proceeded to take a demonstrative penalty shot into the hoard of fans in and around the goal. 

As spectators, officials, players and others argued and fought all over the field for the next half hour, the band played on, and so did the players.  The game looked to have been made official a few times, but the intensity and desire of the teams eventually won out and play resumed.  At one point a winner was declared.  Once again a wave of fans flocked the central area of the field to celebrate with the victors.  A mobile phone billboard was carried onto the field, signifying the trophy ceremony would begin.  Triumphantly the blue captain hosted the trophy in the air and as I was in the post office later I saw them marching through the streets.

            After reviewing my photos it became apparent that the NALI team had won.  Apparently the military comes out on top in disputed polo games as well as governmental elections.  I had survived my first polo match, and as far as I have heard so far everyone else did as well.

PS how are the Stanley Cup playoffs?  And when does lacrosse start in town?